Change here for National Rail

All I can say is “Ugh.” 

One of the big things I love and hate about my experience over here is my commute from Paddington to Reading via train.  I love it because I do not have the stress of driving for over an hour from Central London to Reading. Even though it is the reverse of the flow of traffic, the commute would make me lose my mind a few times. 

Enter the First Great Western service from Paddington to Reading Central. It is completely a commuter rail from London to points west, such as Bristol Temple Meads, Oxford, Bath Spa and Bournemouth.  Reading is usually the first stop on all of the long range trains with one or two trains per hour stopping at intermediate stations like Slough, Maidenhead, and Windsor.  As most people who know me can attest, I am the opposite of a morning person.  I’m a combination between Dagwood Bumstead from the Blondie comics and movies, Jack Nicholson in As Good As It Gets and a fire-breathing dragon.  Some people that used to work for me would never talk to me before ten.  And, I don’t blame them.

Anyway, paying attention to signs is important and Reading is Fundamental.  This morning, I did neither. I quickly scanned the board for the next fast train to Reading, and according to the sign it was leaving from Platform 9.  Well, Platforms 9 and 10 at Paddington are under construction and not well marked.  I got to the platforms and asked the attendant “is this the train to Reading?” She said, ‘yes it is’, and I proceeded to board the train.  Problem was, I boarded the train on Platform 10, and it was the slow train to Reading.  Which takes DOUBLE THE TIME! By the time I figured it out, we were already on our way. 

Shit.

As we approached Slough, which happens to be renowned around the UK as the place that should be completely bulldozed and rebuilt, I realized that I was now going to be 20 minutes late for my meeting at 9am, even though I left at 740. 

God damn it.

Now, I am completely cursing myself as I approach the next three stops on the line. I guess it is now time to pay attention or up the caffeine content in my day – and no one wants me caffienated.  Commuting is not rocket science, but it requires a certain level of consciousness.

So – moral of the story, get a god damned timetable at http://nationalrail.co.uk and read the lit signs before I get on the train.  Or you, as the case may be.

Zen and the Art of Underground Maintenance

Something you get used to pretty quickly here in London is the predictably unpredictable nature of public transportation here.   In the case of trains, there is the London Underground, the London Overground and National Rail – all of which are connected some ways, and in others could not be farther apart.  I have a romantic love for parts of the London Underground.  I would marry the Piccadilly line if I could, even though I do not live anywhere near close to that line.  However, the pace at which there are mass closures and upgrades makes one’s head spin in ways that you can’t imagine.

The London Underground, or the Tube as it is affectionately known, is one of the marvels of modern transportation engineering.  Started as the Metropolitan Railway in the 1840’s, it was designed as a way to funnel people quickly through the narrow streets of London, underground and in a relatively predictable manner.  There was a major run on developing many different lines through the city, none of which really had any organized way of urban planning or overall design.  This resulted in some of the haphazard lines running in strange ways with no rhyme, reason or linkages to each other.  Originally, the train stock was steam, with a later conversion to electric trains around the turn of the century.  The electrification allowed for more capacity and overall focus on service delivery. I could write multiple entries on the Underground alone, and most likely will at a later date.

There has been a lot of focus on improvement of the reliability of the equipment of most of the lines, stations and trains with the Olympics happening here in Summer 2012.  There are specific lines that need work or are never predictably reliable.  Specifically, the Hammersmith and City line and the Jubilee line are two lines that go down like a two dollar hooker.  Ironically, they are the oldest and newest train stocks, respectively, in the entire network.  (I do not count the Waterloo and City line, as I think it has been operational once in the past five years). Interestingly, what tube stop that you live near can make your life easier, or harder as the case may be.  If you move here, what zone you live in impacts how quickly you can get to and from the central city or what resources you may have at your disposal in a quick fashion.

In a nutshell, here’s a description of the lines in Central London which may be helpful if you travel here.

Bakerloo line – Short for Baker Street to Waterloo, which were the examples of its original termination points.  It is almost always reliable and runs from south of the river at Elephant and Castle up to some northern suburbs.  One of the unfortunate things about the Bakerloo line is that it has some of the loudest trains, especially when they put on the brakes.  It’s a bit maddening, sort of like nails on a chalkboard for three straight minutes while coming into a station.

Central Line – The Central line runs, you guessed it, right through central London, mostly under Bayswater Road, Oxford Street and New Oxford Street and then out to the distant eastern and western suburbs. This one is the closest to my flat, gets me from the West End or to Notting Hill Gate or Holland Park to my flat in about 10 minutes.  I never have issues on the Central line other than overcrowding on a morning rush hour.  Most of their deep level stations are decorated with the original white subway tile from the 1890’s.

Circle Line – The Circle line used to actually run in a circle, but now, the route looks like a backwards number nine.  It was actually nice before that it would go in a circle.  Now, you have to change at Paddington or Edgware Road to switch to the other train that will take you in a circular direction.  Most of these stations are above ground or with high retaining walls, shared with the District line and the Hammersmith and City line.  It basically makes a big circle around Central London, hitting most of the major National Rail stations like Victoria, Paddington, Euston and King’s Cross St. Pancras.  Unfortunately, this is one of the most popular tourist and commuter lines and is usually consistently busy.  Also, the Circle Line is one of the most unreliable and uncomfortable.  I usually avoid it if I can.

District Line – The District Line is less of a line than it is an octopus.  There are arms of the District Line that go all over the western, central and eastern parts of Metropolitan London.  If you so chose, you could go from Wimbledon in the south west, through Earl’s Court out to Upminster in the far northeast.  The District line shares tracks and train stock with the Hammersmith and City line and the Circle Line, so, you could be in for a treat of unbearable delays based on the color of your shirt or a change in the weather.  It is very convenient when it is up, however.

Hammersmith and Shitty Line – No, that is exactly what it is.  Old trains, never reliable and closed almost every weekend for refurbishment.  One would think that I would  like it because it is colored pink on the map.  But, sadly, no.  Avoid this line at all costs, unless you have to take the Metropolitan line which is also unbearable.  Problem is, that these lines represent the northern cross London east-west route.  You’re pretty much screwed if you live by Farringdon or Barbican.   Walk to a Central Line station if you can.

Jubilee Line – Ah, the young upstart that is pretty much run in an automated way.  I know it sounds rather Jetsons-ish, but, on the contrary.  Though the Jubilee line has been in place since 1979, and has the newest equipment, the Jubilee line has signal failures, coordination failures and equipment failures more often than my 1976 Ford LTD did in High School. When it works, it is very convenient, fast and clean and can get you to Canary Wharf in minutes from Central London.  It is also one of the lines that will run out to the Olympic park in Stratford in Summer 2012.

Metropolitan Line – The Metropolitan Line seems more like a suburban railway than an underground line, as most of the stations are above ground. The cars seem more like a rundown railway, with very old trains than a tube line that seems.  It does not go to many places that I go, so, I seldom take it.  If you want to go to some places that are very far out from central London, the Metropolitan Line will take you there.

Northern Line – The Northern Line seems like it should be two separate lines – one via Bank and one via Charing Cross Station.  It almost looks like a braided chain on the map.  It goes north/south from the south side of the river up through the City and Central London.  It’s a great way to get to places on the south side of the river, since I have friends who live in Clapham.  Usually, there are few issues, however, changing at some stations can be challenging due to how deep the tunnels are.

Piccadilly Line – My favorite line goes from Heathrow and Uxbridge to Cockfosters.  Any place called Cockfosters is up there in my book, both because I have the sense of humor of a ten year old boy, and I’m gay.  It sounds like the name of an Australian Bathhouse and Beer Bar.  Joking aside, it provides a cheap way to get from Heathrow Airport to many places in Central London.  It stops at some significant tourist destinations like Piccadilly Circus, Hyde Park Corner, Harrods, and King’s Cross/St. Pancras.  The line seems to be the one that has very few problems when you hear “There is a good service on the Piccadilly Line.” You hardly hear that it’s not working.  There are also some architecturally significant designed stations by Charles Holden on the Piccadilly Line, given that there was some major growth on the line in the suburbs in the 1930’s.  Some of the stations, like Southgate, Arnos Grove and Sudbury Town are excellent examples of quality, clean lines and Art Deco combined with Arts and Crafts.  I’ll most likely do a separate blog entry about that architecture as I go tour those stations.

Victoria Line – The Victoria Line was the first automated railway in the world, and the first deep line tunnel underground line in 60 years when it opened.  It works pretty consistently and makes a solid loop from the south side of the river to Walthamstow Central at the north.  At parts of it, it forms an express line that runs similarly to the Bakerloo line, for commuters going from Baker Street to Victoria.

Waterloo and City Line – I am not going to rant about this one, but, here’s a little story.  I visited London around twelve times over the past five years prior to moving here. In those five years, I never once saw the Waterloo and City Line open.  Not once.  It was always under refurbishment or down.  It is pretty much an express tram from Waterloo Station to Bank Station, enabling commuters to get to the City as quickly as possible. Otherwise, that trip would be a bit unbearable, having to go through eight stops and one or two changes.

Later on, I’ll talk about the Crossrail Projects, National Rail and the London Overground – all of which are generating a ton of infrastructure work in the current days especially as the time of the Olympics grows nearer.

Mind the gap!

Field Trip in East and North London

Liverpool Street Station Ironwork courtesy of Wikipedia
Wow, was Saturday a great day.
After feeling terrible and contagious on Friday, I met my Canadian rugby friend, David for a walk around East London.  We met at a Wetherspoon’s pub in Liverpool Street Station in the late afternoon.  Wetherspoon’s are like the McPub: big named lagers on tap, faceless, nameless service, non-descript food a flock of tourists at every turn.  Liverpool Street Station was built in the 1870’s on the site of the original Bedlam, yes, that Bedlam. And, while it is not as crazy as Waterloo or Victoria, it’s still the third busiest station in London.  Its Victorian architecture and ornate wrought iron design, gave meaning to the Victorian excess of the time, and is one of the best examples of that iron work left in the city today.
From there, we walked through Spitalfields Market, which on a Saturday afternoon, is completely empty – which was absolutely fine with me.  Even though it was empty, you could still get a pretty solid feel of what the environment is.  Spitalfields in the past had been a produce market, placed smack dab in the middle of the millinery district.  For years, it was the place where the weavers created most of the fabric, and the high street shops received what they needed to make clothing, draperies and tapestries.  In the 1600’s and 1700’s, the Spitalfields area was inhabited by Huegenots, who had brick homes on which they built an additional story to be able to capture as much light as possible to extend the work day and increase production.  Most of these brick homes had become pretty destitute in the 1970’s and 1980’s, as the area around Shoreditch became rife with crime and neglect.  Around that time, inspired artists and real estate speculators noticed these run-down brick homes with original 1700’s woodwork, in the simplistic Dutch Protestant style and the area started a resurgence.  Shops such as All Saints Spitalfields sprouted up and thrived and the area became a very trendy shopping and restaurant area. Nearby, you can get cheap clothing on Petticoat Lane, which historically was the resale area from the aristocracy. Think the Goodwill on steroids.
On Sundays, the Brick Lane market in the neighborhood is also there for shopping delight. This whole neighborhood is fascinating, as it was originally a  Protestant area, then a significant Jewish community with many older synagogues, and in recent times has been inhabited by Bangladeshi and South Indian Muslims.  One of the largest mosques in England is located in the neighborhood, close to the Aldgate tube station.  Brick Lane is home to a plethora of Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi restaurants, with the scents of spices, curry and roast meats wafting through the air at almost all times.  It is very hard to tell some of the restaurants apart, however, most places provide tasty South Asian food at reasonable prices.
After leaving the Brick Lane area, we passed a former built in the Romanesque style, parts of which date from the 1300’s.  The Charterhouse is right on the outside of the City of London, and part of it is still used as a church, as well as a monastery. Ironically, it is where James I, the first combined regent of Scotland and England held court on his first visit to London.  It was partially damaged in WWI and WWII.  It is definitely a place I will visit again and tour.
Charterhouse courtesy of Wikipedia
From there, we walked through Smithfield Market which has amazing historic significance, both as a meat processing center as well as the place where William Wallace of Braveheart fame was hung in the 1300’s.  Again, there are some architecturally significant Victorian structures, which many developers would love to tear down and replace with mixed use buildings.  Ironically, Prince Charles is leading the charge to have these building recognized as historically significant, with some mixed success.  So far, his campaign is working, however, stay tuned.
From there, we walked by the Ten Bells Pub, one of the pubs famous for the Jack the Ripper murders, the Barbican Estate – an architectural monstrosity pretty close to the London Wall, some pieces of which date from Roman times.  The piece that we came close to was in this picture, and dates from the 13th Century. It is definitely fascinating to see such pieces of history next to some modern architecture.
London Wall near the Barbican
Then it was on to the Central Line tube, east to Tottenham Court Road Station.  I am a complete transit geek, as you will see in more posts on this blog.  The London Underground fascinates me with its history, disused stations, complexity and quirky service.  I have talked about the public transport here in another post, but, this time I was actually able to see a disused station from a line, thanks to David’s direction (he’s also a transit geek, so, we got along swimmingly).  The British Museum station was between Holborn and Tottenham Court Road, and closed in 1933 when the Holborn station was remodeled with new escalators instead of lifts.
We changed to the Northern Line to go to a pub in Kentish Town called the Southampton Arms. This pub has hand pumped ales and ciders that are all from independent brewers local to London.  As David said, it isn’t unusual for the farmer’s wife to come into the pub with a pony keg in the back of the truck, directly from the orchard or brewtank.  There were multiple different ciders and ales with not a lager in site.  It was 5pm, and the place was absolutely packed to the gills with everyone enjoying inexpensive, homecrafted ales and ciders in traditional public house fashion.  Great music, awesome conversation and people calling the barmaid “Luv”.  This place makes some of the brewpubs and local beer houses – even the famous ones in Portland, OR – look like a McBrewpub. And, yes, that’s amazing.
After two pints there, we headed down to Camden Town, which is where every 19-24 year old with a bit of money goes to get absolutely shitfaced, vomit in the streets, dance, listen to local rock bands and eat cheap Chinese takeaway after spending too much time and money in the pub.  Camden Market is the largest public market in London, and I will definitely check it out on a day that I have taken a ton of Xanax and I wish for lots of human contact with hipsters.  It will be like an afternoon in Belltown in Seattle.  We did have a pint at The Lock Tavern, definitely a hipster place, but I am a sucker for any place that plays 60’s B-side Soul.  We both had a bitter, and I saw Leonardo di Caprio heading upstairs to the VIP area as I was heading to the toilet.  Definitely hipster cred there.
Gordon's Terrace courtesy of gordonswinebar.co.uk
From Camden Town, we headed south to Charing Cross Station to Gordon’s Wine Bar, London’s oldest wine bar since 1890.  Gordon’s has a cellar cave that used to open up to the Thames which would allow the tidal flow to move wine barrels into the cellar and then allow for them to be locked up and stored.  In present day, they also have a courtyard that has beautiful views of former boat docks for the Duke of Somerset.  It is a great place to drink a glass of port, even in 2 degree Celsius weather.
From there, we walked north to Soho to end the evening with the Kings Cross Steelers rugby team at the Duke of Wellington.  I met a few of the guys, and plan on going to training with them sometime soon.
This was a great field trip and definitely gave me a history lesson in some things that I normally would not have seen in London.